Stanley Bay was not on our to-do list but the ferry to Lamma Island was not until 11:30. I didn’t want to hang around waiting for it so we opted to catch the bus to Stanley Market.
There were a number of changes since our last visit a few years ago. More restaurants and apartment buildings had sprung up. There was also a row of small single storey houses made to look old, I suspect, for the tourists’ palate.
However the bay was still scenic.
The stalls selling clothing and souvenirs did not change much. You can still get good bargains here compared to the high street boutiques.
Ani recommended a tiny cramped stall for its fish ball noodles. Indeed the noodles were very smooth but I found the fish balls average. Frankly speaking, the fish balls in Kota Kinabalu taste better.
Having seen Stanley Market we made our way back to Central to catch the Rickshaw Bus. I had been looking forward to sitting on the open air top deck with little Ishan and Ani and my sister Ellie. However, the rain put paid to that. It would not be the same sitting downstairs as it would be just like any ordinary bus ride. So that was that!
Ani then took us to a well-known restaurant for the famous roast goose but to our disappointment, they had run out of it. Sigh…… that little treat was also gone! It didn’t look like a good afternoon at all. We had to settle for fried squid stuffed with fish meat and a vegetable dish, kalian with mushrooms.
The mushrooms tasted good and the vegetable was crispy but the squid was tough!! It was like chewing rubber!
The price of that lunch was exorbitant considering that it was only two dishes and two bowls of rice.
Anyway, little Ishan’s batteries were running low so we decided to call it a day. He fell asleep even before we had our lunch.
After a short rest in the hotel, we made our way through the wet market that was close by. The fish was really fresh, with a few still jumping.
Fruits were aplenty too.
As it got darker, more and more people spilled out into the streets. Times Square was packed. The crowds just pushed you along!! I had to hold tight to my spouse’s jacket sleeve or be lost in the throng of people.
Beneath the Canal Road Flyover near the Times Square bus station was an old lady seated on a low stool and she was hitting a piece of paper continuously with a slipper while mumbling something. According to Ani, it was the “Beating the Devil” ritual.
Read more about what Ani has to say on it here.
We saw a “tai pai tong” or open air eating stall in a side lane. We opted to have our dinner there. We ordered steamed crabs.
They were very small but had plenty of roe which is what I love. The “lala” or clams were cooked in black bean sauce and were a bit too salty. It was reasonable fare and comparatively cheap. Somehow there is a quaint charm of eating out in the open at night, surrounded by many other diners and the waiters moving swiftly about serving dishes hot from the “wok” ( frying pan ).
Apparently there are not many of these stalls left as the current licences will no longer be renewed and will expire when the licencee dies. It cannot be passed on to his kin as the government is concerned about issues of health and other things related to this kind of business. Hence this kind of eating out will die its natural death.
There is reclamation work going on in the Central area. The authorities are reclaiming the sea and there is a lot of construction going on too.
The skyline will change again, I’m sure, when we next visit. There are still many places to go to and it’s better to take in small doses.
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